“I went daily to the cathedral of Milan, that singular mountain which was torn out of the rocks of Carrara. I saw the church for the first time in the clear moonlight; dazzlingly white stood the upper part of it in the infinitely blue ether. Round about, wherever I looked, from every corner, upon every little tower with which the building was, as it were, overlaid, projected marble figures. Its interior dazzled me more than St. Peter’s Church; the strange gloom, the light which streamed through the painted windows – the wonderful mystical world which revealed itself here – yes, it was a church of God!” – Hans Christian Andersen
How could I describe it any better? Of course, you will see the Duomo when you go. It would be unthinkable not to visit, much like going to Paris or Barcelona only to pass up Notre Dame or Sagrada Familia.
Another “must do” on your list will be to see Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper in Santa Maria della Grazie. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time – the whole experience takes less than 45 minutes, but it’s worth it if only to marvel that it’s survived at all. Between the disintegration that started shortly after completion to the bombings during WWII, it is truly a miracle that it has endured. If you are interested in more da Vinci history and a recreation of his engineering feats, there is an exhibit in the Galleria (which is to the right of the Duomo) that shows The Last Supper as it would have appeared in the late 15th century.
We hired a tour guide, Luca Martinelli, on our second day there to give us an overview of the city. Recommended by my sister-in-law, Luca takes large or small groups on tours all over northern Italy. Now, we’ve toured cities on our own with only Rick Steves (or, a long time ago, Fodors) as our guide. We’ve also taken a week-long group tour once, a long time ago, when I was with an airline. I’m not knocking those, but this is far and away the best way to learn and familiarize yourself with a new place. Luca is knowledgeable and genial, as you’d expect from someone who does this for a living. But he goes the extra mile by making dinner reservations, and, in a more subtle way, he made us feel a part of Italy’s culture. Here’s an example of my meaning: We never felt rushed or tired though we were with him from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (except the 45 minutes in Santa Marie della Grazie). We stopped for lunch, and it was unhurried; we stopped a few hours later for espressos (with grappa), and that, too, was totally relaxed and lengthy, and yet we managed to see most of what was important and hear what to do on our own the next day.
It’s our tendency as Americans to hurry up and see everything – we are go, go, go; Italians savor the moment. Also, with a guide, you are able to save your legs by hopping on and off trolleys and the metro without thinking about where you’re going every moment, so you can look and listen and enjoy (stress-free) the many picturesque areas.
Our third and final day was spent shopping in the morning (I’m sure you know Milan is a fashion capital with spectacular high-end shopping areas as well as areas for the more economical shopper), then to the da Vinci exhibit I mentioned, and at the Sforza Castle in the afternoon. The Sforzas were to Milan what the Medicis were to Florence. You can read more about it in the recently published biography on Leonardo da Vinci’s life by Walter Isaacson. Another good read before you go is Beneath a Scarlet Sky that takes place in the more relatable time period of 1938-1945.
We ended our evening with a delightful dinner on a side street in the Brera district, the artistic heart of the city, also brought to our attention by Luca, our wonderful guide. Text, write or call me if you want to be connected with him.
Milan is an easy city to walk. The public transportation is great, but you don’t need it to get around as long as you have comfortable shoes and the time. Parks, monuments, shops, cafes and sites are everywhere you look.
