All You Need to Know About St. Augustine Grass
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As a homeowner, you know your lawn can be one of the greatest features of your home’s curb appeal or its greatest downfall. Do you know what type of grass your yard is made of? Most likely, it’s St. Augustine grass, and luckily, Suntek Lawn Care is here to provide more information on the makeup of your lawn.
St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is widely adapted to the warm, humid, subtropical regions of the world. It’s the most popular choice for lawns in Florida, and St. Augustine grass is believed to be native to the coastal regions of both the Gulf of Mexico and the Mediterranean. Christopher Regis, CEO of Suntek Lawn Care, discusses the pros and cons of the grass in subject.
Advantages:
- Produces a green to blue-green dense turf.
- Well adapted to most soils and climatic regions in Florida.
- Relatively good salt tolerance. Some have better shade tolerance than other grass species.
- Establishes quickly and easily and may be planted as sod, sprigs or plugs.
Disadvantages:
- Requires water to remain green and healthy and may require supplemental irrigation.
- Has poor wear tolerance and doesn’t hold up to repeated foot/vehicular traffic.
- Turns brown/tan during winter until springtime.
- Produces thatch under high fertilization and irrigation regimes, which may become a health problem for the grass.
- Has coarse, wide leaves and stems and doesn’t grow as densely as some other species.
- Major insect pest is the southern chinch bug, which can cause considerable damage if not treated.
Cultivars
Various cultivars of St. Augustine grass are available in Florida. The varieties have different tolerances to environmental stresses and susceptibility to pests. Regis dived into a thorough explanation of the most common types you’d see around the neighborhood, including Floratam, Palmetto, Raleigh and Dwarf cultivars such as Captiva, Delmar and Sapphire.
Floratam:
“Floratam is the most widely produced and used St. Augustine grass in Florida. It is a coarse-textured cultivar that has poor cold and shade tolerance relative to other St. Augustine grass cultivars. It does not persist well in environments that receive less than six hours of sunlight daily. It grows vigorously in the spring and summer. It is also susceptible to gray leaf spot and other diseases. It should be mowed to a height of three-and-a-half to four inches.”
Palmetto:
“Palmetto is sometimes referred to as a ‘semi-dwarf’ with a shorter growth habit and internodes than many other cultivars, but it is slightly larger than the dwarf St. Augustine grass. It does well in full sun or partial shade but not in dense shade. It is sometimes referred to as drought tolerant. It is not resistant to insects and sometimes has problems with disease, particularly in Florida’s humid environment. It tends to have a lighter green color than many other cultivars. It should be mowed to a height of three to four inches.”
Raleigh:
“Raleigh has a medium green color and a coarse texture. It is susceptible to chinch bugs and large patch disease but is used in Northern Florida due to its tolerance to lower temperatures. It is highly susceptible to gray leaf spot. During peak summertime heat, Raleigh has been noted to yellow and grow less aggressively than it does at cooler temperatures. Supplemental iron applications can reduce this yellowing tendency.”
Dwarf Cultivars
Captiva:
“Captiva has dark green, short, narrow leaf blades and reduced vertical leaf extension, making it a slower-growing cultivar. It exhibits improved tolerance to chinch bugs compared to other commercially-available cultivars. It is somewhat susceptible to diseases such as large patch and take-all root rot, particularly if it receives excess fertilizer or irrigation. It should be mowed to a height of two to two-and-a-half inches.”
Delmar:
“Delmar is often sold as sod or plugs. It has good shade tolerance and does well in full sun. It has short internodes, a dark green color, and good cold tolerance. Delmar is susceptible to chinch bugs, tropical sod webworms, and large patch. It should be mowed to a height of two to two-and-a-half inches.”
Sapphire:
“Sapphire has a blue-green leaf color, purple stolon color, and long leaf blades that remain folded, giving the grass a fine leaf appearance. It spreads rapidly and grows aggressively during the growing season. It is susceptible to most major pests associated with St. Augustine grass. Sapphire should be mowed to a height of two to two-and-a-half inches.”
Establishment of St. Augustine Grass
“Although St. Augustine grass can be planted year-round in warmer regions of Florida, the best time to plant any warm-season grass is during its time of active growth for the quickest establishment. It is also best to avoid temperature extremes if possible, especially if freezing temperatures are forecasted. In South Florida, the optimal time for establishment is late fall, winter, or spring. In Central and North Florida, try to avoid establishment during cold winter or hot, dry summer months,” Regis explained. “It is important to provide irrigation on the correct schedule when grass is newly planted. Multiple, short (five- to 10-minute) irrigations throughout the course of the day for seven to 10 days following planting helps the grass establish without drying out. Three to four weeks after sodding, the grass should be fully established, and irrigation can begin on an as-needed basis.”
Don’t fertilize a newly-planted lawn until 30 to 60 days after planting because “the root system is not developed on new plantings; fertilizing before this can result in nutrient leaching or runoff and potential pollution of ground or surface waters.”
Also, don’t mow two to three weeks after planting. “The lawn should not be mowed until the roots have had a chance to peg down into the soil, generally 14-21 days after planting. Pegging means that the sod cannot be lifted without appreciable force.”
Sodding:
“Sodding is the fastest way to establish a lawn because it provides complete ground cover, and it is not necessary to wait for it to fill in. Sodding reduces potential weed competition that can occur when using other planting methods that leave bare ground,” Regis explained. “However, it is important to remember that the grass is still vulnerable at this stage, and it is not yet safe for play or other activities. It is quite dependent until the roots have developed and extended down into the soil. Rolling and watering thoroughly ensures good contact with the soil for fast rooting.”
Maintenance:
“Proper lawn maintenance practices are the best means for avoiding pest or stress problems and for maintaining a healthy lawn. St. Augustine grass requires inputs of fertilizer to maintain good cover and healthy growth characteristics. During certain times of the year, it generally requires supplemental irrigation. Pesticides may be needed periodically, but their use can be minimized if other cultural practices (mowing, irrigation, fertilization) are done correctly,” detailed Regis.
Fertilization:
“Proper fertilization is especially important for sustaining a healthy lawn. Fertilization and other cultural practices influence the overall health and quality of the lawn and reduce its vulnerability to numerous stresses, including weeds, insects, and disease. There are now state and, in some cities and counties, local regulations that cover lawn fertilization. Be sure to be aware of these regulations and always follow the directions on the fertilizer bag,” Regis stated.
Mowing:
“Proper mowing practices are necessary to keep any lawn healthy and attractive. Standard St. Augustine grass cultivars (Floratam, Palmetto, Raleigh, etc.) should be maintained at a height of three-and-a-half to four inches. Repeatedly mowing at lower heights increases the stress on the lawn, discourages deep rooting, increases the chance for scalping if a mowing event is missed or postponed due to weather, and may increase susceptibility to pest problems,” described Regis. “Maintaining the right height helps the grass develop a deep root system and gives a better appearance to the turf. No more than one-third of the leaf blades should be removed with any mowing. If possible, mowing height should be increased during periods of moisture stress or if the grass is growing in shade.”
Watering:
Regis explained that you should irrigate on an as-needed basis; it’s the best way to maintain any established, mature grass “as long as the proper amount of water is applied when needed.” Grass needs more water when leaf blades begin to fold up, wilt, or turn a blue-gray color, or when footprints remain visible after walking on it. If you notice these signs of water-deprived grass in your yard, Regis advised to “apply half an inch to three-quarters an inch of water per application. This applies water to roughly the top eight inches of soil where most of the roots are.” Be sure to follow any local watering restrictions.
Weeds:
“The best approach to weed control is a healthy, vigorous lawn. Weed problems in a lawn indicate that the turf has been weakened by improper management practices or damage from pests. Proper management practices can eliminate many weed problems,” detailed Regis.
Insects:
Watch out for the southern chinch bug. “Chinch bugs are foliar-feeding insects that suck plant juices through a needle-like beak, causing yellowish to brownish patches in turf,” Regis described. “Injured areas are usually first noticed as the weather begins to warm in areas along sidewalks, adjacent to buildings, and in other water-stressed areas where the grass is in full sun.”
Diseases:
“Large patch and gray leaf spot are two major disease problems. Large patch occurs in warm, humid weather and is encouraged by excessive nitrogen. It is generally most noticeable during the spring and fall months. Gray leaf spot occurs during the summer rainy season and is primarily a problem on new growth. Both diseases can be controlled with fungicides,” explained Regis.
“If you are feeling unhappy or even slightly embarrassed by the way your yard looks, feel free to reach out to me directly – (754) 265-6608. I’ll be happy to give you some free guidance and recommendations to help you get a yard you can feel proud of!”
So, if you are in the market for a new lawn care service company that cares about the environment and lets you live your busy day with one fewer distraction, consider Suntek Lawn Care. Suntek offers 50% off the first mow for Lake Nona residents when they sign up. For more information, visit www.sunteklawncare.com or call (321) 396-2425 for a free quote.
Photos Courtesy of Suntek Lawn Care